Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
